Pool leak or evaporation? How to tell in Phuket and what to do next

Every pool in Phuket loses some water to sun and wind. The question is whether yours is losing more than that and, if so, where the water is going.

Guides and answers

Why pools in Phuket lose water

Pools in Phuket and across Thailand lose a noticeable amount of water to evaporation. This is especially true in the dry season, with strong sun, warm water and a steady breeze. Overflow pools usually lose more than skimmer pools, because the water spreads thinly over the edge and sits in an open channel and balance tank. Heavy use, splashing and backwashing the filter also take water out.

A leak is different. It does not depend on the weather, and it can get worse over time. Some leaks show when the pump is running or when the water stands above a certain level. A leak can wash away treatment, soften the ground under terraces and damage the finish from behind. The aim is to tell the two apart before anyone breaks a tile.

A simple bucket comparison

You can get a useful first answer yourself. Put a bucket on a pool step so that it sits partly in the water. Fill it with pool water to roughly the same level as the pool. Mark the water level inside the bucket, and on the pool wall or skimmer.

Leave both for the same period, with no swimming and the automatic top-up switched off. Then compare the drop. Sun and wind act on both in much the same way. If it rains during the comparison, start again. If the pool has dropped noticeably more than the bucket, water is probably escaping somewhere.

It helps to repeat the comparison once with the pump running and once with it switched off. If the pool loses more with the pump on, that can point towards the pipework or the overflow system. If the loss is similar either way, the shell, a fitting or a light niche becomes more likely. Treat the result as a pointer, not a diagnosis.

What you can see for yourself

Other signs can point to a leak before the bucket does.

None of these proves a leak on its own, but two or three together are worth investigating. Write down what you notice and when, as it helps narrow the search.

  • The automatic top-up runs all the time, or the water bill or delivery orders rise for no clear reason
  • Damp patches, soft ground or sinking paving around the pool or near pipe runs
  • Hollow or lifting tiles, cracks in the shell or open joints along the terrace
  • Water in the pump room or around the balance tank
  • A water level that always settles at the same point, such as just below a light or a fitting
  • Staining or algae that keeps returning in one spot

Where to look for a leak

A leak investigation concentrates on a few places where water can escape. In our experience, water most often escapes through pool light fittings, because their conduits are frequently run through the shell instead of being brought up properly above water level.

We also check skimmers, main drains and return fittings, because the seal around them can fail.

  • Underwater light fittings and niches. Light housings, cable glands and conduits run through the shell are the most frequent source of leaks.
  • Buried pipes. Pipes under the floor or around the shell can come apart at the joints or crack, for example where the ground has settled.
  • Construction joints. The joint between the floor and the walls, or between an old shell and a later extension, can be a weak point.
  • Overflow channels and balance tanks. An underground balance tank can seep into the surrounding ground without anyone seeing it.
  • An overflow level set too high. When rendering or refinishing raises the overflow edge, the water can rise into the joint under the terrace and escape there.

What a leak inspection involves

Before breaking any tiles or concrete, we inspect the pool, the balance tank and the plant room. We use imported fluorescent leak-detection dye kits: dye is added near suspected points and traced with a special torch. We do everything we can to find the cause by working through likely faults and testing them, but we cannot promise to find every leak; sometimes a leak cannot be found without excavation or opening parts of the structure.

Once a fault is confirmed, we choose the repair that fits it. Replacing leaking lights or lowering an overflow lip that is too high can sometimes be done with the water lowered. Any work on the electrical side of the lights is agreed with your electrician or engineer. Floor pipes, construction joints, shell waterproofing and tank-in-tank rebuilds (for balance tanks and, in difficult cases, the pool itself) need the pool or tank drained and dried.

When a pool's history is unknown, not every hidden problem can be found at once. Repairs and restarts can go in stages: fix a fault, start the pool, and check whether another issue shows up. If you want a broader picture first, our pool inspection records any signs of a leak in a written report.

  • Checks that compare evaporation with the drop in water level
  • Fluorescent dye testing traced with a special torch around light fittings, skimmers, drains and return fittings, with water in the pool
  • Testing of the suction, return, jet and drain lines
  • Checking the overflow level against the terrace joint
  • Inspecting underground balance tanks and pump rooms for seepage

Why a new finish is not waterproofing

It is tempting to think that refinishing a pool will seal it. It does not. A finish, whether tiles or PebbleCrete, is a surface layer. Waterproofing is a separate system that sits beneath the render and the finish. Leaks in pipes, lights and tanks are outside the finish altogether.

Refinishing over an active leak hides it for a while. Meanwhile the water keeps escaping, the ground can keep softening and the new surface can be damaged from behind. Find and repair the leak first, then plan the surface.

The same applies to waterproofing. Where a shell or balance tank needs it, waterproofing is its own item of work, planned with the pool or tank drained. It is not something a new finish provides.

What to send us for a first discussion

Send us these details so we can review the symptoms and plan an inspection.

  • Photos of the pool, the overflow channel, the balance tank and the pump room
  • Your villa, hotel or resort location in Phuket or elsewhere in Thailand
  • The approximate pool size, and how much the level drops with the pump on and off
  • What you see: damp patches, hollow tiles, cracks, water in the pump room or past repairs

Where we have done this

Questions we are asked

Does the pool need to be drained to find a leak?

Usually not to begin with. Leak checks and fluorescent dye tests around fittings are done with water in the pool. While we work through likely causes and test them, some leaks cannot be confirmed without excavation or opening part of the structure.

Is it normal for an overflow pool to lose more water?

Yes. Overflow pools usually lose more to evaporation than skimmer pools, because more water is exposed. The bucket comparison still helps, and the balance tank should be checked as well.

Can a leak damage the terrace?

It can. Water escaping into the ground can soften it and undermine terraces and paving. That is why we look for the cause early.

Tell us where the pool is and what you want changed.